I am so excited because I can now weld the rings I use to make jewelry. Welding will solve two problems at the same time
Problem One: Open Rings
Chainmaille jewelry can be very beautiful, but it has a problem. Rings can open when they are stressed, which means they may fall out and the jewelry will need repair. For most designs, this is not a problem except for the rings that hold the clasps. Those are the rings that get the most stress, caused from opening and closing the jewelry.
For example, I have worn my Full Persian bracelet nearly every day for years, and not once has any ring come loose…except at the clasp. I have had to re-close those rings twice. Not too bad considering the thousands of times I have worn the bracelet. Fortunately, it is a very simple fix. A couple of minutes with my needle-nose pliers, and the rings are once again fully closed. Of course, I am a jeweler so it’s not a problem. I made the jewelry and have the tools and expertise to repair it, but what about the person who buys jewelry from me?
For a few of the designs, such as the Viperscale bracelet, ring stress is a bigger problem. The rings are far larger and are, as a result, more susceptible to opening.
Fortunately, designs that feature small, tightly-fitted rings don’t open except under severe stress, such as when the jewelry is caught on something and yanked. For example, with the JPL weave or the Rondo a la Byzantine weaves, the rings are simply not going to open unless yanked hard.
Problem Two: Heirloom Expense
For quite some time, I have offered various jewelry designs in an “heirloom” version. I have limited this version to those designs that feature larger rings and a lacy and less-dense weave. With the heirloom version, all the rings are soldered closed. In fact, the heirloom version is the preferred version to sell, not because of the higher price but because I know the jewelry in the standard, un-soldered, version will come back for repairs.
I see this problem from the buyers’ perspective. They purchase a beautiful piece of jewelry, perhaps as a gift for a husband or wife. They love the jewelry and enjoy wearing it. Some people are much harder on their jewelry than others. After 5 or 6 months of daily wear, the jewelry needs repair. I receive a distressed message stating “Help! My bracelet needs repair!” I’m happy to do the repairs, usually at no cost, but I can imagine that it is disappointing for the buyers.
Until now, the best solution was to solder the rings. With soldering, a very small amount of metal alloy (the solder) is melted into the ring cut, where it adheres to both sides of the cut and locks it into place.
I often solder the rings at the clasp on the standard versions, depending on the style and size of the rings. With the heirloom versions, soldering so many rings takes a long, long time to do, which raises the cost significantly. With designs that feature smaller, tightly fitted rings, it is impossible.
Until now, heirloom versions can cost many times more than standard versions due to the extremely long time to make them.
What is Welding?
The solution to both problems is welding.
|
|
Visualize the rings used to make chainmaille jewelry. They have a precision cut in them where the ring can be opened and closed. The rings are opened, woven into place, and then closed. I am meticulous about closing rings exactly. With perfect closures, the cut edges will not scratch the wearer, and they are far less likely to open. In fact, this is the major difference between professional and non-professional chainmaille jewelry. |
|
|
With welding, both sides of the ring material, whether silver or other material, are basically melted together at the ring opening. They are fused into a continuous, uncut ring. Unlike soldering, welding does not require adding any additional alloy material, so the only material is the silver (or whatever). Also, the entire ring is much stronger–because there is no longer any closure! |
How Welding Solves Both Problems
Problem 1: Open Rings
Welded rings won’t ever open, come loose, or fall out. Once welded, rings cannot open because there is nothing that can open! Even soldered rings can, potentially but unlikely, open if they are yanked hard or twisted. Not so with welded rings.
I am seriously considering discontinuing the “standard” version for a couple of designs (Viperscale and Viper Basket) because they really need welding.
Problem 2: Expense for Heirloom Versions
Welding is a much faster process than soldering. I use a “spot arc welder” that blasts the ring opening with a micro lightning bolt (not really, but that’s the closest analogy). The ring material melts and instantly re-forms. From start to finish, I need maybe 20 seconds to place the ring in the welder, create the weld, and get ready for the next ring.
While this still adds time to the jewelry making process, it is nothing like the time needed for soldering and may save hours overall.
How does this relate to the cost? Let me give you an example. Let’s say the standard version of a bracelet is $200. Previously, the heirloom version, with soldering, may cost around $600. That’s a huge difference, to say the least! In fact, it’s probably more than the bracelet is worth.
Now, let’s use the same example with welding. The standard version at $200 may be only $250 in heirloom version. The savings is $350, and the bracelet is higher quality! This new cost is reasonable and closely matches the value of the finished bracelet.
One More Benefit to Welding
With my spot welder, I can weld even the smallest, tightest rings. Every piece can be welded.
Even so, some designs do not need welding. The rings won’t open…except at the clasps. Now that I am able to weld rings, I can–and will–always weld the rings at the clasps for no extra cost. For example, with my Full Persian bracelet, the rings along the chain don’t really need welding, but the rings at the clasp do. I can weld these few rings easily and keep the price exactly the same.
Result: better jewelry at the same price.
Final Thought
If you have been visiting this site or reading my posts for any time, you know that I am very detail oriented and absolutely committed to producing high-quality and beautiful jewelry. It is my passion.
Now that I can weld rings, I can raise the quality to the highest level. And that makes me very excited, not only for me as a jeweler but also for the buyer who will benefit when he or she gets a piece of Desert Chains jewelry.
